Introduction to the 1856 journal.

In 1856 Lady Somerville departs for the season to the North. Her choice is the traditional watering resort of Scarborough, famous for its spa and being the first place in England to introduce bathing machines. The opening of the railways in the mid 19th century greatly eased the travel problems of such a lengthy journey and the Somervilles were quick to utilise this new form of transport. She does not state exactly where the family stayed but from the clues in the text we can ascertain that it was 29 The Esplanade. The house belonged to a local clergyman but is now a hotel. It is high on the cliff above the Spa on the southern side of the town and commands superb views of Filey and Scarborough Bay and Castle.

The trip to the North provided an opportunity for some of the family members to visit the Pavilion at Melrose, Roxburghshire, south of Edinburgh in Scotland. This was a family seat and again the new railway assisted in bringing the party to within a short distance of the estates, which are located on the Tweed.

Having sold all the family estates in Mid Lothian, including Drum, the Pavilion was first acquired by John Southey 15th Baron Somerville (1765 - 1819), probably about 1796. He was the half brother of Kenelm, the 17th Baron Somerville. John was born at Fitzhead Court, Taunton, graduated with an MA in 1785 and went on the Grand Tour. He initially enjoyed little fortune until a dispute over his mother's property inheritance was settled in his favour. Originally the location of the Pavilion was a small hamlet known as Alwyn and John reconstructed the settlement into a substantial and impressive single residence.

John was a keen agriculturalist and amongst other innovations he introduced the Merino sheep from Spain. The relocation to Melrose reflected this agricultural interest rather than the family's military tradition. Although a Colonel in the West Sussex Yeomanry he had retired prematurely due to a carriage accident. In 1793 he became an original member of the Board of Agriculture and by 1798 was it's President. His interest in animal breeding led him to be quoted in Darwin's 'Origin of Species'. John had also attempted unsuccessfully to purchase the Chateau Somerville in France, from whence originated the ancient roots of the family.

He was a friend and neighbour of Sir Walter Scott who had purchased an adjacent estate. A risky pastime that they both enjoyed was 'burning the waters', salmon fishing by torchlight at night, where stepping into a deep pool was a risk in the dark. In a letter to Lord Byron in 1812, Scott offers the recipient accommodation at Lord Somerville's residence, demonstrating the friendship with John. Scott developed his new estate on the Tweed into Abbotsford, a stately Scottish baronial home. As a result of his relationship with John, Scott laboured with more than the usual zeal, editing the 'Memorie of the Somervilles', based on original manuscripts by James Somerville of Drum, 1679, held by the family. This curious family history was published in two volumes in October 1815. Such expeditions into Scottish Baronial history were a great love of Scott. The original manuscripts are mentioned in Lady Frances Somerville's will written in 1876, leaving them to her daughter Louisa.

The name 'the Pavilion' was a suggestion of Queen Charlotte, wife of George III. John was well known at Court and was appointed Lord of the Kings Bedchamber in 1799. It was the Queen who proposed the name following the adoption of a similar name for the Brighton Pavilion, which was then being similarly developed. Baron Somerville did not occupy the Pavilion all the time and it is apparent that it was usually tenanted, often being used as a hunting lodge rather than a permanent residence by the owners.

The death of John, 15th Baron Somerville is the likely commemoration on a single stone slab in Melrose Abbey inscribed 'Lord Somerville'. In a letter dated October 1819, Scott records that John, 15th Baron Somerville is 'at his last gasp', ill with dysentery at Vevey on the northern side of Lake Geneva. When John died the Pavilion appears to have gone to Kenelm's brother Mark, the 16th Baron who in turn in 1842 left it to Kenelm, 17th Baron and husband of Lady Frances Louisa Somerville. In the 1856 diary we learn that the family were off to see their far-flung estates, probably for the first time for the children who made the journey to Scotland.

Scott incidentally also records the Rev. Dr Thomas Somerville owning Lowood, another estate just on the opposite side of the Tweed to the Pavilion. Dr Somerville was a distant cousin of Kenelm and Lady Somerville, descending from Hugh the 5th Baron Somerville. Thomas's son Samuel was estate manager at the Pavilion. Dr Somerville was a noted scholar and was minister of Jedburgh. In 1789 he received an honorary degree from St Andrew's University following a work that he became particularly noted for 'History of Great Britain under the Reign of Queen Anne' (London 1798). He lived to the age of 90 years, dying in 1830, and was a great friend of Scott.

The Somerville Pavilion at Melrose

It is interesting to trace the ownership of the Pavilion down through the generations, because this also gives a clue as to how the diaries came to be separated from the other family heirlooms. Kenelm on his death in 1864 passed the Pavilion to Hugh his son and 18th Baron, who on his death in 1868 passed it to Aubrey, cousin and 19th Baron.

Aubrey died in 1870 and mentions the Pavilion in his will, leaving it to his brother Augustus. As all of Aubrey's brothers were deceased by 1870 and there were no sisters, the Pavilion must have passed to Lady Francis Somerville as the surviving family heir. On Lady Somerville's death in 1885, the estate must have then passed to her eldest daughter Louisa, by then the Hon. Mrs Charles Henry. In 1886 Louisa is described as 'of the Pavilion, North Britain' and could have assumed the title 'Baroness Somerville'. Louisa died without issue in 1923, outliving all her brothers and sisters. The Pavilion estates then passed to the Biddulph family, as the surviving heirs to the family of Lady Frances Louisa and Kenelm 17th Baron Somerville.

Lady Somerville's daughter Emily in 1872 had married Sir Theophilus William Biddulph of Westcombe. Their son and heir was Sir Theophilus George Biddulph (1874 - 1948) whose wife Eleanor was in possession of, and in residence at, the Pavilion until her death in 1969. On the death of Louisa, she could have assumed the title 'Baroness Somerville'. The estate then passed to the Blackett family as sole surviving line to Lady Frances Louisa and Kenelm 17th Baron Somerville's family.

Lady Somerville's youngest daughter Julia had married Major General Sir Edward William Blackett 7th bart. in 1871, of Matfen Hall, Northumberland. Although Julia died in 1913, the line survived through their son Sir Hugh Douglas Blackett (1873 - 1960) and then his son Sir Charles Douglas Blackett (1904 - 1968). Sir Charles Douglas Blackett had 3 brothers, George, Francis and Rupert. On the death of Sir Charles Douglas Blackett the lineage and in 1969, The Pavilion, went to a brother Sir George William Blackett (1906 - 1994). The lineage then passed to Hugh, son of Francis, of Halton Castle, Northumberland.

In the early 1970s Sir George Blackett was seen in the vicinity of the Pavilion with his nephew (Hugh, cousin of the Sir Hugh Blackett of Halton Castle), admiring the splendid view of the Eildon Hills and the Tweed. When approached by the local 'gillie' he revealed, almost regretfully, that he had once owned this beautiful piece of Scotland. Such regret was justified because Sir George, in 1969, had soon disposed of the Pavilion estate to the Crawford family. John Crawford paid the then substantial sum of 56,000 pounds for all the lands after some debate as to whether the estate should be split up. The Crawfords, after initially letting out the premises, have more recently restored the buildings and grounds to their former glory, turning it into two homes for their sons families, Debi & Michael Crawford and Mary and Cameron Crawford, together with their children.

The legendary Somerville worm, once a weather vane on the roof is now gone and the ships bell, inscribed SS Pavilion disappeared about the time of the estate sale in 1969. The diaries probably gravitated to and then remained at the Pavilion down to 1969, and were then transferred to Matfen Hall, Northumberland as part of the Blackett family inheritance. The contents of Matfen Hall were the subject of an estate sale about this time by Sir George Blackett and the diaries were likely disposed of with the library books. It is known that the portrait of John 15th Baron Somerville was located there, however this is one of a number of items that have remained in the Blackett family thereafter, including the legendary Somerville worm from the Pavilion, Melrose. Since the Matfen Hall sale, the diaries remained in the north of England, eventually surfacing from a dealers' almost forgotten stock to be secured by this author(s).

Initially one diary was offered for possible disposal because of its Isle of Wight content. Printed bibliographies gave no clue to the nature of the document on offer and it was a surprise when it arrived to find that it was an original leather bound diary for the years 1855 and 1858. Further enquiries resulted in a further volume coming to light, this time for the years 1859 and 1860. Two volumes appeared to have been disposed of earlier and it was rewarding to be able to locate the owner of one of these for the years 1854 and 1856, which is now integrated into this work. The whereabouts and contents of the other remains a mystery. In addition two photograph albums have been located. These were likely assembled by Julia and her mother, Lady Somerville, over many years. They contain excellent likenesses of the family and friends from the early 1860s and are richly hand decorated, presumably by the original owners.

[1]


[2] Scarborough

August 1856

August 12th Tuesday - Left Newbold, a party of 15 - 9 first Class, and 6 secondF/N 1, at 8.30 and came on by a very slow Parliamentary TrainF/N 2, from Rugby to York, stopping every five minutes at the smallest stations and making it a most tedious journey. However luckily it was neither hot nor dusty, but occasional showers so we had reason to be thankful, as we did catch the train at York, tho' long behind our time - We found Mrs Ewen and - Emily's pet Jim had been much worse off on Saturday, as they arrived at York just after Dove's execution for the murder of his wife, and could not get in from York, where they did not arrive till 9-30 pouring with rain!F/N 3, [3] We were very glad of our tea and bed after such a tedious journey, but had time to admire our houseF/N 4, which is most comfortably situated, belonging to a Mr Grey / a Clergyman F/N 5, / who has kindly left us his books, pianoforte harmonium etc. adding much to our enjoyment -. The situation is lovely - on the highest Cliff, commanding a fine expanse of sea studied with small vessels = the Town, Bay and Castle to the left, and Flamborough Head to the right - the place seems full of manufacturers from Leeds, Hull etc. and the Spa crowded to suffocation when the band plays, but at other times very pretty and pleasant - We passed through some lovely scenery in Derbyshire and also at Castle Howard -.



Scarborough Spa and Concert Hall as it appeared at the time of Lady Somerville's visit. Its appearance was to change when Paxton removed the castellated turrets about 1858.

13th Went down to the Spa and subscribed to thatF/N 6, and the BridgeF/N 7, - Lodging hunting [4] for the Fairfaxes but could not find one large enough for them - Explored the Town, and made some purchases - dined at five, and attempted a walk, but were caught in a thunderstorm and without Umbrellas, so we came back in a Fly wet through -. Mr Begby called -.

14th Went to the market and the Spa. Hugh and Emily took a ride on the sands - rather showery - Letter from Mrs Forbes to say they had been driven out of Madeira by the Cholera, and were returned to England!

15th Into the Town again to buy hats blowing very hard last night - met Lady Crompton and her daughters, much improved since we saw them. About 4 o'clock Mrs Fairfax surprised us by walking in with 3 younger children. [5] She has taken 'Alma house' near us and Mr Fairfax and the sixth join them tomorrow -. After dinner she joined us, and we took a walk up to the North Cliff to look at the CastleF/N 8, - there are some new houses built there, but they look dull and uninviting - Came home thro' the back streets rather tired.

16th I went to sit with Constantia who was rather C.D. today then down to the sands to see the children bathe, which looked far from tempting so shallow and muddy, and such crowds of people - one was ridden or driven over every moment - Called on Mrs Smith Barry at the Royal Hotel - but did not find her - Miss BaxterF/N 9, and the girls drove to Carnelian BayF/N 10, but the tide was too high to find pebbles -.[6]

[7] After our dinner Mr Fairfax called, having just arrived in rather a dilemma - poor Ferdy having feinted at the station, owing to an inflamed foot and being out of health altogether. In the Evening we walked towards Mount OliverF/N 11, a very fine view, and then strolled about with the Fairfaxes - Louly is grown a fine handsome girl and K very tall - they will I hope be an acquisition to us - Letter from Lady Cartwright who is at Florae on route to Germany. Mrs J Bailey / nee Russell / paid me a long visit with her son I had not seen her for years, and she looks as amiable and good natured as ever -.

Sunday 17th Such a contrast to last Sunday, when we were meeting at Leamington. [8] [9] Today a driving East wind and fine waves. I went with Hugh and Mary to the parish Church St Mary'sF/N 12, which was crowded to suffocation, but luckily Mr Begbie met us and piloted us to a seat in the side Aisle. Mr Whiteside / the Rector / preached for the Scripture Readers, a good sermon a procession of Choristers, but the singing indifferent I thought - The Church has been lately restored and is very handsome, without Galleries. Walked with the Fairfaxes down to the Spa, where the waves were dashing up magnificently, and we all got more or less of a shower bath, which we should have enjoyed but for best bonnets. Came home to dinner and then went to Christ Church a very modern little ChapelF/N 13, and very crowded and hot - but a good sermon again from Mr Whiteside [10] We did not get home till 9. The rest of the party went to the Parish and were charmed with it - I met old Miss Monson this morning, just returned from all the gay doings at Bedele for General Windham, who must be getting tired of being a Lion.

18th The morning being showery and cold did not seem very propitious for our trip to Filey, but as it cleared about 11.30, we started by railway and after a long delay at Seamer / owing to the monster Excursion trains from Leeds / we arrived at Filey at 12.30 walked round by the new Crescent, a fine row of houses with an immense Hotel and made our way to a much more humble one in the old Town called 'Fords Hotel'. Kenelm and I took a Pony fly and drove [11] [12] down on the sands as far as we could and then joined the juniors and walked on the rocks to the brigg / so called, tho' in reality a reef of rocks / over which the spray was dashing in magnificent style, with a strong N.E. wind - the waves curling like enormous cascades and pouring down a flood of white foam almost like Niagara! A storm of rain came on, just as we reached them, but we weathered it, and sat gazing and admiring and Louy sketching the rock for an hour or twoF/N 14, - We then returned to our Pony carriage, and came back to the sands - found stones, shells etc. and saw a boat landing in the surf - very wet and uncomfortable -. Altogether our impression of Filey was not very lively and the country is very dreary and ugly about it We went [13][14] back to the Hotel up a very pretty little wooded valley to the Church, as shown in the Vignette - We had a very bad English dinner, but the waiter amused us by the account of the marriage of Admiral Mitford's only daughter to a Mr Anderson, which seems to have been a most grand affair, and he assured us that the Crescent Hotel made 600 pounds by it - he seemed to consider the Admiral quite as 'the Marquis of Carebas' - Came home quicker than we went and arrived at about 7 - found letters from nobody, but cards from Mrs Smith Barry and Lady Crompton ended by a severe Tea.

August 19th I went with Louy and Emmy to take their first lesson from Mr Carter in water colour sketchingF/N 15. Called on Mrs Begbie but were not admitted. [15]



View across the bay at Scarborough.

[16] After luncheon I went to see Mrs Fairfax / and Ferdy still on the sofa / and walked with her into the Town - Met Mr Fairfax with Colonel Hale whom I knew many years ago - Went to the Jet Shop Vassali's and bought a large supply of bracelets etc for the girlsF/N 16, - In the Evening went down to the Spa, to see the waves dashing over, almost as fine as Filey Brigg. Met Miss Heron there, and then the Fairfaxes - still cold, but pleasant.

20th We went to see all the children start with Ann and Doswell for Carnelian BayF/N 17, by the beach, with their luncheon in baskets - they found a good many stones and seaweed and came home a very scrambling way by the Cliffs, and over hedge and ditch very tired and hungry about 6. [17] [18] During their absence Kenelm and I took a little Pony carriage and drove to the North Cliff and down on the sands, along them to Scalby MillF/N 18, where there are tea gardens and several donkeys biped and quadrupledF/N 19. Came back by the Whitby road and stopped in the Town to the jet shopsF/N 20, etc-. Mrs Smith Barry paid us a long visit, and Mr Begbie also. Captain Orlando BridgmanF/N 21, called. Letters from Miss Kaye Judy etc.

21st Blowing a gale and pouring torrents all night and this morning rain coming in at all the Windows, but about four we got out to the MuseumF/N 22, and Jet shops - met Lady Crompton and her daughters, and called on the Fairfaxes, who were going to [19] the Play tonight - still pouring.

22nd Went again with the girls to Mr Carter, and called on Mrs Begbie but she was not to be seen - He came down and apologised for her - Again to the Jet shops. Mr and Mrs Fairfax called, and insisted on our going to Newton on the 2nd for the Fete at Bramham on the 3rd which we shall enjoy - Kenelm talks of taking Hugh to Melrose meantime. After luncheon walked down to the Pier, where Hugh, and the Fairfax boys were fruitlessly and coldly trying to fish. Walked back by the sands, and home by the Spa - very cold and stormy. Met Miss Monson again - Letter from Mary Steward, says it is equally cold in Shropshire.

23rd Called on the Fairfaxes, and went to Jet shops etc. - After luncheon [20] called on Lady Crompton - and on Miss Monson, where we met Mr and Mrs Purse Beresford / Mrs Windham's brother / just returned from their gay reception of our Gallant General at Bedele. The girls and Hugh walked to the North sands sketching - In the Evening went to the Play with the Fairfaxes, and were very well amused with 'Used Up' etc. Roxby and Beverly good actors, but one always gets too much of a good thing. Rather warmer today, wind changed.

Sunday 24th Really a fine day - Emily Julia and I went to St Thomas's Church on the sands,F/N 23, / of which our Landlord Mr Grey is the Incumbent / it is a nice little Church, and the service very fairly performed in the old fashioned way, with a Clerk, schoolboys etc. Walked home by the sands which is shorter and pleasanter -. We walked on the outside Pier too - a beautiful view! - [21]


Scarborough Pier.

[22] Found a letter from Humberstone they seem to have had the same miserable weather that we have, or even worse. After dinner walked with Hugh and Mary to the Parish Church, which is really beautiful from the centre Aisle and the view from the Church yard perfect. Kenelm and Louy went to Christ Church and Emily and the little ones / who had been to 3 o'clock service / walked up Oliver's Mount with Jim - The lights were so clear and good that the views were better than we have yet seen them, and the air so soft.

25th After all our hopes yesterday here is another blowing rainy wretched day / serious indeed for the harvest / Did not stir out till near 4 and then went down to the Pier with Kenelm and Louy, but found it blustering and disagreeable - Returned by the sands where they were packing shoals of [23] HerringsF/N 24, and sat on the Spa a little. Called on the Fairfaxes and had some tea in the school room - Hugh went fishing with Ferdy - unsuccessful.

26th Very pleasant day - Went to Mr Carter's with the girls - and then the family went (on) a party with Fairfaxes up to the Castle to sketch, while Kenelm and I, being unable to get a carriage, strolled on to the North Cliff, and sat in the Churchyard some time, admiring the View - Hugh caught a few fish from a boat, and went to the Play to see 'Little Toddlekins' Louy and Mary went with Fairfaxes to the Concert at the Spa - Rained in the Evening again - bad for the Harvest. Selina and Julia in bed most of the day with colds, and bilious attacks - A letter from Mr Rutherford throws an obstacle in the way of the Scotch trip! [24][25]

27th Rather a damp and stormy day again wind N.E. Did not go out in the morning, but the girls went to the Spa with the Fairfaxes -. After luncheon I walked with Kenelm Louy and Emily up to the Church, and on to the Castle admired the views, and enjoyed the air extremely - Kenelm and Emily and Hugh went to hear Love Simulations.


Scarborough Castle

28th The events of today are soon written, for a warm drizzling rain the whole morning kept us in the house till near 3. Mr Rutherford came over from HarrogateF/N 25, and arranged with Kenelm to meet him the end of next week - so he and Hugh will start on Thursday / D.V.F/N 26, / and return the following Wednesday - We took a wet walk down to the Spa, called on the Fairfaxes / who were out / and [26] then came home. I worked myself in to a headache, and did not go down to dinner - Hugh went to the Play with Ferdy, and the girls Esplanaded with Louly! A letter from Miss Sympson in the Highlands with the Astleys, she has a situation in view with Lady Jane Golding, but nothing yet settled -.

29th Mr Fairfax called to wish us goodbye, and Mrs Fairfax and I walked a little together, and then parted / we hope / to meet again on Tuesday - Went to Mr Carter, and after luncheon took a walk with the girls, through a pretty little wooded valley called the Plantation and then part of the way up Oliver's Mount. - Hugh and Emily rode to Scalby Mill and then joined us - A kind note from Mrs Johnston, [27] asking us to luncheon at HacknessF/N 27, any day, so I hope we shall go on Monday -.



30th Fine day, but the colds are spreading, and I am very rheumatic Mary beginning, and poor dear Kenelm has one of his old oppressive ones, and oblige to have resource to mustard. Went in the morning to the Spa, to hear the band and called on Miss Heron. Emmy and Jim went to bathe - I [28] took a walk with Selina and Julia through the Plantation, while the others went to sketch at the Castle. A box of grouse arrived, from an unknown quarter - Loch Head! We suppose it is Sir The. -

31st Fine, but cold wind - Poor Kenelm very unwell with a cold and sent for Mr Dale the Dr. - I was rheumatic too, and did not go to Church in the morning - but I went to St Mary's in the afternoon with Mary and the little ones -. A very long prosy sermon - Met Miss Heron coming up here, and walked with her. Letter from Miss Kaye, still at Appleby, but going to Hatchford.

September 1st Mr Dale came again to see Kenelm, and found him better, but put a veto on his going to Scotland, a great disappointment to Hugh, but no doubt it is all for the best. I [29] [30] went with Louy and Emily to lunch at HacknessF/N 28, by appointment - Found old Lady Johnstone, and Mrs Johnstone, Mrs Fenton Scott and Miss J. - Two dear little children of Mrs J's took off the form considerably at luncheon, and then we went out to the pretty ChurchF/N 29, and the Kitchen garden, Fernery etc. - the Wooded hills which surround the house are quite beautiful, and such a dear little Beck flowing through it, reminded us of the Lake scenery. Mrs Johnstone / nee Mills / made herself very agreeable, and did all she could to amuse us - the gentlemen were out on the moors Grousing - Hugh and the little ones went to the Horsemanship.

September 2nd After going to the Spa to hear the band, and walking with Captain Bridgman, we / Louy, Emily and I / went by the Railway at 2 o'clock to York - found Mr Fairfax's coach ready at the [31] station, to take us on to Newton Kyme, where we arrived at 6 o'clock - were received with open arms by Constantia at the gate ushered into the school room to tea, and then to a very nice bedroom with 3 windows opening on a Balcony and looking down the Avenue - Mr Oliver / Cromwell / Mr Challoner, Mr Walker and Mr Barton dined there, and we had some beautiful singing - The place is very nice, and wonderfully improved -.

September 3rd This is our 23rd wedding day, and I was greeted by congratulations from my two dear girls! Certainly I have much to be thankful for in such uninterrupted happiness - About a quarter past one, we all started in three carriages for Bramham Park. Mr George Fox's - where there was a fete Champetre, attended by all the County / about 200 people / beautiful gardens, with Terraces and cut high hedges, in the formal style like Versailles [32] on a large scale, and very handsome, but the house was burnt down some years ago, and only the shell remains -. It was a very pretty sight, such a number of gaily dressed, pretty people, HarewoodsF/N 30, Nevills, Meynell Ingrams etc. and several pretty children -. After refreshments in a tent, we all adjourned to the Bowling Green where they danced to rather an indifferent Band till half past 6 when we all returned to a late dinner, very tired and rather cross. I met a few people I knew - Mrs Bland, the Boucheretts, Wilkinsons, and was introduced to Lord Harewood, Sir Maxwell Wallace etc. - It was a very pleasant day, tho' not brilliant.

September 4th At 11 we all / at least Constantia Louy Emily Mr Hodgson, Mr Walker and I went by train to Harrogate, thro' Tadcaster Wetherby, Spofforth etc. - walked from the station along the large common to the 'Queen Hotel' standing in a gardenF/N 31, - where Constantia stopped to call on Mrs Walker, while [33]



Christ Church High Harrogate

[34] we strolled on to the Church and High Harrogate to The Granby. It is built round a large Common, and the air is as fine as possible but there is no beauty of scenery to recommend it, tho' many good Lions in the neighbourhoodF/N 32, - having invested a few shillings in native DiamondsF/N 33, and prayer books, we walked down to low Harrogate, which is more of a town, and prettier, but the air not near so fine - We went to the Montpellier SpaF/N 34, tasted those most horrible waters / which perfumed the whole atmosphere / walked in the gardens, and to the Concert roomF/N 35, where Piccolomine was expected, and then some returned by train, and I drove with Mr Fairfax, and Captain Hodgson in the Dog cart, which I enjoyed extremely. We passed Knaresborough, Plumpton a place of Lord Harewoods, with fine rocks overhanging the River, and a great resort for the victims at Harrogate. Stopped to see Spofforth Church, which has been beautifully restored, and is very fine [35] in the gift of Colonel Windham and worth 5000 pounds a year I believe - Mr Spratt rector.


Montpellier Baths, Harrogate

[36] Home through the Town of Wetherby, Thorpe Arch etc., altogether a very pretty pleasant drive and Mr Fairfax is always most intelligent and agreeable. [37] Sir Maxwell and Lady Wallace arrived, and were a very amusing addition to our party - also Captain Gunter, and Mr Hovender two young men of fortune, but nothing very fascinating - We had some charming music - Lady Wallace plays most beautifully, and Constantia and Conny sing to perfection!

Friday 5th A beautiful but cold day -. I drove with Lady Wallace to Lord Londesborough'sF/N 36, / Grimstone / to enquire for their dying daughter - It is rather a fine place, but not one that I shall covet at all -. Called on old Mrs Fairfax who is a wonderful old specimen of her genus - at 76 - Mrs Wilkinson and her son Bathurst came to luncheon - the former all crinoline and finery - the son a young soldier quartered at Leeds - The young Mr Johnstone dined - all the young ones went out in a boat up the River to Thorpe Arch. [38] Did not return till 6 o'clock having enjoyed a long scrambling walk -. The good old Captain Hodgson took care of my two so they were all right. Lady Wallace played beautifully on a bad Pianoforte and Constantia and Conny sang divinely.



St Mary's Church/Abbey ruins, York, 2019

6th Breakfasted at 9 and at 10 Mr Fairfax kindly drove us in his coach with Sir Maxwell, Conny and Louly to York, unluckily it was raining but we took our time over the glorious Minster, so grand from its enormous size and antiquity. From thence we went to the museum, and admired the collection of fossils in Coal strata, and the skeletons of Birds etc., and were delighted with the fine old ruin of St Mary's Church in the gardens. Altogether it is well worth seeing. It rained so much that we could not go on the walls, so we wound up with the Confectioners and took leave of the Fairfaxes at the station. [39][40]



Museum and Cliff Bridge Scarborough

[41] Left York at 3 and found Hugh and the little ones awaiting us at the station, walked home with them and found Kenelm at home by the fire, as it rained, and his cold is still bad - Found letters from Mrs Manning and Lady Erroll etc. the former touring in south Wales - the latter at Weymouth.

7th Sunday Showery again - we went to Christ Church in the morning and in the afternoon to St Mary's - Mr Woodall did the duty - I admire the Church more and more. A letter from Aubrey Cartwright it being announcing the death of poor Sir Thomas Aubrey, who has been so long in a deplorable state of health. Mrs Cartwright was with him, and feels it deeply - Henry Cartwright is his heir.

8th Went down to the Spa with Louy and walked with Captain Bridgman - Hugh and the girls walked to Carnelian Bay, and [42] Kenelm and I went up to the station and then to meet Selina and Julia, who were sketching at Scalby Mill - Hugh went to the Play - letters from Charlotte Hunter and Miss Sympson - the latter enjoying her Highland trip extremely.

9th Went to Mr Carter's again, and after luncheon took a walk to FalsgraveF/N 37, and round by the plantation - a brilliant day - Hugh and his sisters went to Scalby and the Castle sketching - he also went fishing, but caught nothing - too bright. [43] [44] Hugh went to the Play - called on Miss Heron - she received us in the public room at the Royal Hotel - met old Mr Palmer Morewood -.



Right: The railway from Pickering to Whitby is now known as the North Yorkshire Moors Railway and is a preserved steam line. In the picture the steam train arrives at Pickering Station in 2019. Long gone are the days of haulage up the incline by rope.

10th Breakfasted at 8 and at 9.20 Kenelm and I, with Louy, Emily, Mary and Hugh went by Railway to Whitby - It is a tedious journey of 3 1/2 hours, and we had to wait near an hour at RillingtonF/N 38, so we disported ourselves in the corn fields in preference to the waiting room - and met the interesting Mr Hull mooning about! The drive from Pickering to Whitby is quite lovely, through a richly wooded Valley with a clear dark river running through itF/N 39, which we crossed no less than 15 times - the Railway winding in a most unusual manner, and at one place down so steep a hill that we were obliged to be wound up and down by a rope, worked by a steam engine on the side of the roadF/N 40, - The scene was varied by moor land and heather, and altogether we were delighted with itF/N 41. [45] On our arrival at Whitby we first went to an excellent Confectioners, and refreshed ourselves then ordered our dinner at the Angel, a small Inn in the TownF/N 42, - the narrow street is called BaxtergateF/N 43, - and from thence we ascended the FlowergateF/N 44, and up a steep hill to the West Cliff where the Royal Hotel is, and a handsome row of houses, which command a beautiful view of the sea and Harbour and Pier, and the opposite Cliff, on which the Abbey and St Mary's Church stand - We admired the situation very much, but had not time to linger, so descended another way by some fine rocks called the 'Kyber Pass'F/N 45, - invested in some nice specimens of Ammonites which abound here - We then crossed the River (Esk) in a boat and ascended the 194 steps, which lead up to the Parish Church and Abbey - the former a most barbarous specimen of taste. Whitewash, ceiling, Galleries, Sash windows and all sorts of abominations - but it holds [46]


Whitby Abbey and harbour.

[47] above 2200 peopleF/N 46, - There are several monuments to the Cholmley family / owners of the Abbey / but nothing very remarkableF/N 47. I was most agreeably surprised in the Abbey, which was built in the year 630, and is a fine Gothic ruin in wonderful preservationF/N 48, - Many of the Pillars, Arches and windows almost perfect still - The girls sketched it and we walked about and explored the ruins - As usual numbers of vulgar people were picnicing among them. We went in an excursion train only 5 shillings each to Whitby and back! There is a curious old manor house adjoining the Abbey belonging to the Cholmley family but a row of sheds, with red tiled roofs are most disfiguring to the LandscapeF/N 49. Kenelm / after joining us at the Abbey / went to the Pier, which is very handsome -. We returned to the 'Angel' through the Town, and over the bridgeF/N 50, ate our dinner, /which was a much better one than at Filey / and [48] then after buying a few more views and Ammonites / we had not time to visit the museum / returned to the station, and home through the pretty Valley - detained as before three quarters of an hour in the dark at Rillington arrived at Scarboro' at 8, and walked home through the Town - A severe tea and bed finished this fatiguing day satisfactorily - We were rather glad to have accomplished the winding with ropes up the hill in safety, for it is fearful to think what would have been our fate if they had given way!F/N 51.



11th This is my 52nd birthday and I was greeted as usual by good wishes and pretty little Cadeaux from all my darlings! but the day was gloomy and cold, and poor dear Hugh made a gap in our family party by going back to Eton - a long journey starting a 9.20, and not getting to his final [49] [50] destination at Eton till 10 o'clock tho' he gets to London at 7 - It was a gloomy cold day, east wind as usual. We went down to the Spa, and then into the Town, and round to the North Cliff - Came home rather tired - Letters from Miss Kaye, Lady Hereford, full of her happy prospects, and Walter Devereux' intended marriage to Miss Hughes of Kenmuir. Also from Miss Granville who is enjoying herself in Scotland with the Sleafords of St. Fort - the Des Voeux are also there -. Emily had a very grumpy letter from Humberstone.



Right: Hugh Somerville, Lady Somerville's eldest child (born 1839) who was with father Kenelm, his brother and his five sisters on holiday in Scarborough together with members of the extended family and servants. This picture comes from the Somerville family photo album.

12th Fine bright cold day - Anne and Doswell went by steamer to Whitby did not start till an hour and a half after the time, were sick all the way and only remained there an hour and a half, so I insert it as a warning to avoid the same mode of travel! Went to Mr Carter in the morning. Had a long visit from old Mrs Bisshopp who is on her way from Edinburgh and Melrose, and is two doors from us only. [51] A visit also from a Mr Lyley, but I do not remember much about him or his wife who is with him - I took advantage of the clear day to ascend Oliver's Mount in a little carriage and was delighted with the birdseye view of Scarborough and the whole country including Filey, Flanborough Head and the whole German Ocean - I walked down the steep descent / which I did not much fancy / with Mary but it was really not so bad as it had been reported to me! On our return we met old Mr Lichfield and his young wife, trying to find a house to put their heads in. We went to see the process of salting drying, and packing the Herrings - a very curious sight - about 40,000 were lying on the floor, some for Bloaters, only cured 24 hours and dried 12. The red herrings go through about 3 months process - Ended by a turn on the Spa - letters from Lady [52] Cartwright at Sandigate where she is gone for a year, and I shall miss her much. Also from Mrs Fairfax, Mr Hutton who is just returned from the Pyrenees and arrived at Plymouth and Launceston and from Mrs Somerville - Aubrey at Liverpool seeking employment.

13th September Very wet and cold all the morning, so we did not go out till 3 when it cleared to a bright fine evening but a N.E. wind - The girls went to the Town and Spa, and Kenelm and I went by the sands to the end of the Pier - Saw them landing and packing Herrings, and drying their nets, which I find are about 30 yards long - they generally catch about 4 or 5 Lasts, each last being 10,000. They are fine strong boats, but it must be a very hard life, and there are many winds here in the winter - Called on the Morewoods, but they were out - A letter from dear Hugh, who arrived safe [53] at Eton at half past 10, a long days journey free from toothache, and plenty of companions. Heard also from Julia Skipwith - they are a large merry family party at Llandudno, and have been touring to Llanberris etc. etc. - I was also much amused at receiving a 'Kiss me quick' or knitted handkerchief from our late Governess Miss Cunningham, as a birthday present! With a long high flown epistle, which I must answer.

14th The most lovely day we have had since we came here, bright clear and warm. Went to Christ Church in the morning. Charity sermon from Dr Whiteside, who's delivery I did not like, so quick and flippant, but the subject was good 'I stand at the door and knock' meaning our conscience - it was for building new schools here. In the afternoon I went with the girls to the Parish Church and heard a good sermon from Mr Pix, lately come from Trinidad - We came home by the North Cliff - and met Mrs Bisshopp [54] going to the Catholic Chapel - no letters. The Emperor of Russia was crowned last Sunday - such a lovely full Moon -.



Now a restaurant but easily mistaken for a Scottish Baronial home, it is in fact the former railway station, Melrose.

15th Rather a stormy morning, but it turned out finer, and at 9 am Kenelm Louy and Mary and Doswell started for Scotland leaving poor Emmie and I to console ourselves as best we may - They are to sleep at Berwick and reach Melrose early tomorrowF/N 52, - no letters. Mrs Palmer Morewood and her daughter called, and found me bootless, to my great horror, and Emily's amusement! She and I sat sometime with Mrs Bishopp who is two doors from us, and called on the Lysleys who were out - We then walked round by the railway, and up towards a wooded hill, very steep and fatiguing - on the Ayton road -. Drank tea at 7 with the little chicks and had oysters for supper - very snug.

16th Went down to the Spa with Emily Jim, and Julia, to hear the Band - Emily went out sketching with Miss Baxter and Mr Carter, to Scalby Mill - Selina and I took a walk towards Falsgrave - Windy [55] but no rain - Letter from Mrs William Cartwright with an account of poor Sir Thomas's WillF/N 53. He has left all to the Cartwrights, Henry 100,000 pounds, Frederick 20,000 pounds Julia 10,000 pounds and other Legacies - Emily and I went to the Concert at the Spa, and were much pleased with Miss Milner's singing and Cooper's playing - both really good and the orchestra very fair - Came home at half past 9 -. Not a clear moon for Melrose!

17th Very stormy dull and gloomy, so Emily and I only got a little walk in the afternoon [56] and just as we had settled ourselves to read 'The Abbott' comfortably, Mrs and Miss Lysley came and in to inflict us with a long visit of an hour, in which we exhausted every topic of conversation that could be imagined - however they sent us three Partridges, as a sort of compensation. Drank tea at half 6, and all five went to the Theatre - cried our eyes out at the 'Stranger' which was really very fairly acted by Miss Mary Simms and Mr Jones and certainly is a most interesting Play. 'The old Chateau' followed, which I did not care much for, and we walked home by half moonlight at 12 o'clock.

18th Fine bright cold day September like and we received long dispatches from Melrose which are very interesting, and the girls seem highly delighted with the ruins at Dryburgh, AbbotsfordF/N 54, etc. - Today they were to go to Edinburgh, which will be charming, and return home on Saturday without sleeping on the road as they did at Berwick in going -. Letter from Mrs Manning at Tenby which she likes -


Scotts home at Abbottsford

[57] Miss Bisshopp paid us a visit - I went with Emmie Selina and Julia to the Pier saw several people fishing but no success - home by the sands - The little ones had a half holiday, as Miss Baxter went out to Tea -.

19th Very stormy cold day - Emmie went with Miss Baxter to Mr Carter and came home in a Fly -. It cleared in the afternoon, and we all went out on the sands towards Carnelian Bay, and really enjoyed it much -. The sea was so fine and rough, the rocks so bold, and the most perfect double rainbow appeared across the sea, making a most perfect marine picture. Letters again from Scotland - all delight with the Pavilion, Alwyn Glen etc.F/N 55, - they are to sleep at Berwick today and will be home to dinner I hope tomorrow -. We have been very snug and comfortable without them, but still nevertheless welcome them with open arms. [58]

Left: The Pavilion, Melrose in 2000 - roof line

20th A cold and stormy day again - Letters from Kenelm and Mary - the former has been at Kelso, to see his old friend Admiral Scott, while Louy and Mary went to Edinburgh, saw all they could see, in a few hours, and came back perfectly enchanted with all they had seen -. We took a good blow on the sands again, very cold but healthy - Julia and Selina rode on a very stubborn pony. Came in and prepared for the return of our travellers, who did not arrive till half past 7, full to the brim of Scotland's charms, and pretty presents for us all brooches, paper knives, pin cushions etc. They saw Melrose by moonlight and thought of the 'Last Minstrel'F/N 56, of course.

Sunday 21st Fine, but cold wind. Went to Christ Church, and heard a very good sermon / for additional Curates / from Mr Oates - He told us that the population of England doubled itself every fifty years - and consequently required [59] [60][61]


Melrose Abbey from the Somerville family photo album.

[62] double the number of Clergymen, which were very inadequately supplied - etc. etc. Went in the afternoon to the Parish Church and I contrived to tumble prostrate in the Porch not seeing the step, and knocked my head and hand - but was able to go into Church luckily, and only felt a little headache and shaken -. Emily and Miss Baxter went in the Evening and came back in a pouring rain - Mr Bennett, tho' he only preached in the afternoon -. No letters -.

22nd To Mr Carter's again - Mr Lichfield paid us a long visit, and we agreed to go up Oliver's Mount at 3 - but it became so cold and cloudy, that we gave it up, and went in the Town, and on the sands and Spa, till driven in by rain which set in for the Evening -.

23rd Went shopping with Selina and Julia very stormy - but Louy and I walked up to the Castle, and down round by the sands - saw an immense shoal of [63] herrings / about 20,000 / in a box, being shovelled into barrels. - Dined early and went with Louy Emily and Selina to the Concert at the Saloon - Miss Freeman, sang, and a Mr Rogers, played the flageolet not so good as the last but still very pleasant and enjoyable -. It was a very wet night unluckily -.

24th A fine day after a stormy night and I went with Louy and Emily to the Castle sketching, and poor Jim enjoyed his first walk after his distemper -. The Lichfields paid us a long visit, and in the afternoon went on the sands sketching -. It was very calm, and the equinox seems over -. Letters from Hugh and Freddy, and Charlotte Hunter enquiring about Lady Hereford's intended marriage with Mr I. Blackburn, which she had not heard! It is to be in February - [64]

25th Stormy day again - went to Mr Carter's in a Fly and paid him his bill of 10 pounds 10 shillings. He is clever, but very conceited and full of tricks - Sat with Mrs Bisshopp some time talking over Lady Hereford's prospects, as she too has been made a confidante! Went out again with Kenelm / who was busy as usual paying bills etc. / Emily and Mary to the Town, and down to the market and on to the sands, where there were no herrings today, but one of the fishing boats launched. At times the sea is covered with a flight of passing Vessels as on Sunday. We were caught in a thunderstorm and rather wet, so dressed for dinner.

26th A brilliant morning, and I made the ascent of Mount Oliver with Mr and Mrs Lichfield, Selina and Julia and Jim. It was rather hard work for the old ones as the previous rain had made the grass so very slippery, I nearly gave it up [65] in despair, and should have done so, had I not dreaded the descent by the steep path more than pursuing the slippery path upwards - so 'Christian' and I made our pilgrims progress by dint of a staff and a strong arm, and a few backward strides we attained the summit of our wishes, and were rewarded by a beautiful view of the Town, Bays, Filey, Flamborough etc. - and came down by the carriage road, which is very easy and plain sailing - Mr Lichfield read us a long poetical panegyric upon the beauties and charms of Scarboro' when he got to the top, and recovered his breath! We then took our last look at the Spa, and the dashing foam of the sea, and the Town, and then returned for our final packings and settlings, took leave of Mr Carter, who has a very sufficient notion of his own talents [66] and went to bed early, to prepare for tomorrows journey home.

27th Left Scarborough at 9 hoping to reach Newbold at 5.5 but the carriage was put upon the slow trainF/N 57, instead of the fast, by mistake at York, so that we had the same tedious stopping journey as in coming - an age at NormantonF/N 58, and all the dirty manufacturing Towns and did not get to Rugby, till 7-30, or home till 8-30 - it rained too incessantly which did not, add to our good humour. Mr Palmer Morewood junior travelled in the Coupe with Emily, and was very agreeable she said -. We were thankful to find ourselves safe at home, and to return to our home comforts in such weather! Got a substantial tea and went to bed - but were dismayed to find our leather bag, with all our night apparatus brushes, combs, and necessaries of life had vanished! and I fear irrecoverably!

28th A very rainy Sunday, but we managed to get to the Parish Church, and to our surprise [67] heard a very good sermon from Mr Craig on the patience of Job, for which virtue I suppose he had just found sufficient exercise in 3 months in Warwick jail! The Living is sequential and I am told he is now his own Curate!F/N 59. Read prayers at home in the afternoon but the girls went again.

29th Pouring day again - Mr Jones came to pay us a friendly visit, and was much pleased with Selina's improved looks - Kenelm consulted him for his cold, which still hangs about him.

30th Kenelm and I drove to Barford and found poor William with a bad cold and trachea attack again which prevented his going to Guy's Cliffe.

October 1st Took Lady Hereford out driving. I forgot to mention that she dined with us on Sunday, full of her future prospects, and very gay -. Sat with Mrs Begbie, who is wonderfully restored by Scarboro' air and Dr Harland - called on [68] the Des Voeux but was not admitted as they are in trouble about their sons again - debts, etc. The William Cartwrights came over to luncheon, and to see Jones from Rugby - poor Mrs Cartwright seems very unwell and coming to consult Middleton. Everard and Aubrey Somerville came to stay with us till Saturday.

2nd Got out a little in the rain, met the Earles and Huttons coming to call, so I walked with them Lady Hereford, and Mr and Miss Steward dined with us - she sang in the Evening, and then went on to Dr Russell the homeopathic doctor.

3rd A wet day again unluckily for the boys - but we got out a little and called on the Ladies Cathcart, Miss Heron etc. - all at home of course - that nice Edward Ward came to us from Appleby, to consult Jones, after a very severe illness - he is a charming youth of 19 in the Artillery. [69]

4th Took Everard and Aubrey back to Barford - found William still with a bad cough, and the room full of Percys. Called on the Bracebridges, and found Mrs Ricketts & co there. Yesterday Captain and Mrs Reader, and Miss Randolph dined with us - a little singing again.

5th Sunday I went in the morning to the Parish Church - Mr Craig gave us a very energetic sermon - the day was lovely, quite summer again. In the afternoon went to the Episcopal where there was a very poor congregation Mr Riddell preached - a fair old fashioned sermon - called on the Des Voeux, who are all in sad spirits.

6th Drove with Emily and Edward to Warwick, and called on the Huttons - poor Mr Des Voeux called in wretched spirits about his sons - cold and rainy!

7th Donald McKenzie dined with us. Lady Hereford came to luncheon and Aubrey [70] Somerville drove over - Called on the Earles, and Lady Louisa Finch Hatton.

8th Wet morning again - but it cleared and we drove with Edward Ward to Warwick. Lady Hereford dined with us - Letters from Mrs Elliott, and Humfry at Boothby.

9th Miss Kaye came from Filori. Took a drive with Edward Ward round by Guys Cliffe - Miss Des Voeux called.

10th Drove to Baggington with Marie Edward and Emily, and found the Gooches and their little dwindled baby in high force - Miss Des Voeux and her brother, and Mr Weekes dined with us - He came to let his house and to spend the winter at Paris -.

11th Rained all day long, and we could not get out, except to the Concert, where we just missed Grisi and Marco who only sang one song each and it began at one / it is really too bad the way one is humbugged [71] but the Gassiers did their best to make up for it - they went through the Opera of Sonnambula - We met Grisi on the stairs / Hugh's 17th birthday.

Sunday 12th A fine mild day. Miss Kaye Edward and I went with Kenelm to St Mary's - did not much like Mr Bramley, who is conceited and low church and Dr Wolf established himself as Parish Clerk, shouting the responses. We went in the afternoon to Episcopal heard a very bad Curate there, and walked with Mrs Hugh Williams and Miss Steward.

[FINIS] - transcribed by Bruce Osborne 2001



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